The fall of the Roman Empire, the invasion of the barbarians and the endless wars did the Western world subside in a dark period for which perfume was hardly a place. In the 12th century this changed: the trade emerged. The knowledge of the perfume production could develop thanks to the increase of the universities in large cities, the competence of alchemists and the use of the distillation process, introduced by the Arabs. Incense and myrrhe were still the holy fragrances. In these days ladies sprinkled their fineries and homes with brushes like aspergilla for religious ceremonies. Contrary to what people often think, is that in the Middle Ages people were champion of washings and bathing.

A new perfume holder arose, the pomander, which was invented to preserve musk, amber, resin and perfumed oil. The metal ball had little holes through which the perfume could escape. To these scents therapeutic strengths were attributed, which would eradicate pestilence and other epidemics, and stimulate the digestion and potency. Soon Venice became the perfume capital. Within the city walls several spices, originated from the Far East, were traded. A traveller named Marco Polo, took pepper, nutmeg and clove from his journeys. The Arabic seaman brought spices from the Dutch East Indies and Ceylon. They also brought spices which were taken from China and Malaysia for Asian traders. In the second half of the 14th century the fluid perfumes on basis of alcohol and ethereal oils appeared. These scents were called ‘toilet water’. There is a legend about the toilet water ‘eau de la reine de hongrie’ made on the basis of rosemary.

The legend tells that queen Elisabeth of Hungary received this perfume from the hand of a monk. The health of the 70 years old queen was poor, but from the moment that she took the extract, she completely recovered. She rejuvenated so much, that the king of Poland proposed to her.
As a consequence of the discovery of America in the 15th century, Venice lost its prominent position. The Portuguese and Spaniards extended their trade. In the 16th century the Dutchman played an important role in this area. Contrary to their predecessors, only occupied with trade, they also guarded the local production and improved the agricultural techniques. The amount of toilet waters increased, not only the single, containing only one ingredient, but the compound waters, containing flowers, herbs, musk and amber, as well. They were used for their medical effect, as well as blurring body odours, because despite the attention to hygiene  in the Middle Ages, the opposite concerned the Renaissance, in which water was seen as a carrier of pestilence and other diseases.


History

Perfume was preserved in phials, ampoules or blown glass. Next to this there was Venetian glass, crystal and white milk glass, reminding of old Eastern china. There were many kinds of pear-shaped metal bottles, made of simple or precious materials. The pomander had meanwhile got small compartments in the shape of orange parts, all filled with a different scent.

In the 17th century perfume became a tremendous success. People were so obsessed by perfume that hygiene was out of the question! In 1656 de glove perfumer appeared. Since several years the aristocracy showed no interest anymore in leather gloves, leaving a nauseating odour of paint on the skin. It was decided to sprinkle the gloves with dominating smells. The glove industry, under the direction of Louis XIII and subsequently Louis X1V took the opportunity of taking a monopoly position in the field of perfume, which was at the expense of the pharmacists, the distiller, the alchemists and the chemists. In the 17th Century the ingredients for perfume were extended with jasmine, bulbous plants and roses. Also the bottles varied more and more. The pomander became common practice and would remain fashionable till the end of the 18th century. Many pear-shaped little bottles of transparent glass and crystal existed. In the baroque period perfume cases and bottle holders with exotic illustrations appeared.

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